Now is the perfect time to winterize your pond. As fall begins we will notice the temperature dropping and the leaves starting to change colors and falling to the ground. The entire pond, including the fish and plants, all need their own special care and have very different needs in the winterization process which require you to ensure specific treatment for each category.

To ready your pond for another winter you may want to begin byPond cleaning your pond, pumps, and filters from all leaves, muck, fish waste and any other debris you may find. Once you have cleaned out the debris, you should cut away dead or dying leaves on aquatic vegetation and remove. Any hardy plants you may have you may want sink to the bottom of the pond to better their chances to survive. You should also lift your pump off of the bottom of the pond at least 12” to help keep the fish and hardy plants warmer through the cold months. At this point if you have a UV light you may want to disconnect it and store it in a safe place. Don’t forget to add your cold weather bacteria to help break down fish waste through the colder months of winter. Once you have everything cleaned you may want to cover the pond with pond netting to prevent new falling leaves from getting into the pond.

Now that temperatures are dropping & if you have fish, you should consistently check on the water temperature to determine what kind of food to feed or if you should even feed your fish at all. When the water temperature drops to 55 degrees Fahrenheit, you should switch the food to a cold weather diet which is low in protein. As the temperature continues to drop you will notice that at about 50 degrees Fahrenheit your fish may lose interest in food so you can cut the feedings to only 2 or 3 times a week. When your water temperature reaches 41 degrees Fahrenheit, you should no longer feed them at all. You can cause harm to your Koi and goldfish by feeding them through the winter because there digestive system slows down causing digestion not to occur.

Now that you have your pond clean and free from leaves, the last step is to find what method of keeping the ice from freezing that works best for you. I prefer using a 1500 watt pond heater although there are many different options to choose from like an aerator, a lower wattage pond heater, or just keeping your waterfall running. I have found that the most effective method is a higher wattage pond heater just because there is less of a chance your pond will freeze over on cold winter nights. Air holes are crucial for toxic gases trapped under the ice to escape. These gases that get trapped under the ice are formed from decaying debris and fish waste.  It is usually the trapped gases that kill the fish during the winter, not the lack of oxygen or cold water.

-Provided by Oakland Columbus

Posted in Gardening, Irrigation, Landscape | Leave a comment

To Divide or Not – That’s the Question.

F087-25 As you  walk around your  gardens this fall, you may start thinking about dividing your perennials. Should I do this, can I do that, or is this the time? Dividing perennials is not as tough as one may think. In general, spring flowering plants prefer division in fall, while fall flowering plants like division in spring. If you are willing to give up a seasons worth of flowers, you can divide in either one. Maybe the plant has not been performing like it should or the center has died out. Or, you would like to give pieces to family or friends. Here are some tips to help.F770-24

To divide a perennial, dig up the clump. Take a sharp knife or spade and cut the clump in half. You can then cut the halves into pieces if desired and replant or give to friends. Try to do this in a shaded area so the roots do not dry out. If the center has died, cut that out and replant the healthy pieces. Replant the divided parts and water in well.

You may ask “How often should I divide?” That depends on the perennial. Some perennials require more division, every four years or less. Some examples are Bearded Iris, Coreopsis, Yarrows, and both creeping and garden Phlox. Other perennials require division less often, every 5-10 years. These would include , Daylilies, Coneflowers, Blackeyed Susans, Sedums, Lambs Ear, and the F054-12shade favorite Hostas.

Then there are those who would scream, “Why are you moving me!!!”. These perennials, (Peony, Purple Loosestrife, Lenton Rose, Russian Sage, False Indigo, and Coral Bells) to name a few would rather not be moved at all. Peonies for example may not flower for up to three years after being disturbed.F051-06

So, as the days get short and the nights more crisp, don’t be afraid of dividing your plants. Not only will your plants thank you, but maybe friends will too.

-Provided by Oakland Delaware


Posted in Gardening, Landscape | Leave a comment

Building a Cob Oven



A few weeks ago, the Oakland staff had the unique opportunity to work with Weston Lombard of Solid Ground Farm and he taught us how to build a cob oven.

Cob is nothing more than clay, water, straw, and some sand, mixed together to create a substance, that when dry, can withstand incredibly hot temperatures.  Cob is excellent at absorbing and releasing heat, so it’s perfect for creating blistering hot ovens in which you can bake pizza, breads, or anything else you would cook in an oven.

Weston has built several ovens—and a house—from cob, and was a wealth of information regarding supplies and techniques.  Below are the basic steps for cob oven building, but for more information, visit his website here and for great break down of steps, check out The Cob Oven Project.

We’re planning on testing it out at a few events at the Columbus store, so keep in touch!

First, your oven needs a sturdy base. We used a pallet (so we could *hopefully* move it around the nursery) and limestone wallstone. The inside was filled with packed clay. photo 1
Weston demonstrated the importance of having clay that you could manipulate with your hands–too wet and it won’t stay together, too dry and it will crack. It also needs the right amount of sand to hold it together…too much sand, it won’t 2
After laying down several inches of clay (without straw) to create a base, we then built a ring of clay–into which we laid empty glass bottles (soda, beer, or wine bottles work great) to act as insulation. Over that, we added another layer of clay, and leveled the top to be as flat as possible.
photo 3

After leveling the top, we placed a layer of firebricks (you can buy them at most hardware stores). These are the floor of the oven and do an excellent job of holding heat. photo 4
To shape the oven itself, we piled sand into a dome shaped pile then covered it with wet strips of newspaper.  The newspaper acts as a barrier between the clay (next step) and the sand).
photo 5
After the newspaper, the first layer of clay (still without straw) is applied. This can be several inches thick, and the thicker, the better–thicker walls will retain for heat for longer periods of time.
photo 6
After applying about 3″ of clay, we added a thick layer of cob: clay with straw mixed into it. Much like re-bar in concrete, straw in the clay helps to strengthen the clay and keeps it from cracking. You don’t want to put a cob layer on the immediate inside layer of the oven as the straw can catch fire!
photo 7
To finish, we covered the whole oven with one more layer of smooth cob, and “shaped” the whole thing like an upside-down acorn.  The door template was kept in place to mark the size and shape of the door.  After several days of drying, we cut removed the template, cut the door and removed the sand pile from inside the oven. photo 8
To get the oven going, build a fire inside the oven…the clay walls will absorb the heat and hold it for hours.  After the fire has burnt down to coals, the coals are removed, and the bread or pizza can be slid into the oven. Cob ovens can get up to 700 degrees in temperature–perfect for baking pizzas in minutes. As they cool down to the 300-400 degree range, they are great for baking bread.

We look forward to experimenting with the oven and hopefully turning out some delicious pizza for staff and customers!

Posted in cooking, Landscape, permaculture | Comments Off

Ornamental Grasses in the Autumn Landscape

images3   Now is the perfect time to consider planting ornamental grasses in your garden and landscape. They provide excellent fall and winter aesthetics, in their late “flowers” (seed heads), that are prominent in the fall season, and their foliage,   which persists into the fall and winter months, long after they have went dormant after the growing season, yet looks spectacular and adds much to the landscape during that desolate time of year. There is a huge assortment of different varieties that are available here in central Ohio that are extremely hardy and each offers unique ornamental qualities to the landscape.untitled4 Also, the selection keeps expanding, with quite a few new varieties being introduced in the past few years.

The largest group is the Maiden grasses (Miscanthus), available in many varieties with a vast array of ornamental attributes. They have tremendous seed heads that come into fruition this time of year, prominently displaying much color and interest in the fall garden. The stems of many of these varieties also start turning colors this time of year, ranging from pink to purple to even reddish, providing highlight to the landscape during the waning autumn months. Some of the more popular varieties: Dwarf Maiden Grass (Miscanthus sinensis ‘gracillimus’) is  very popular and known for its mid-range height (5-6’) and growth habit that is densely compact with fine foliage of silvery undertones that along with its gorgeous large seed heads make it a striking staple in our fall landscape. Another popular variety is Morninguntitled2 Light Maiden Grass, known for its variegated foliage of a prominent white and green combination and compact growth habit (3’). ‘Adagio’ is another   good choice. Being very similar to ‘Gracillimus” but with a compact growth habit (4’-4’). Also available are Zebra and Porcupine Grass, known for their striping that runs sideways across the stem rather than longitudinally. ‘Gold Bar’ is a new variety of this type of variegation that is extremely prominent. These varieties add both color and interest to the fall landscape. Another great species to consider are the Feather Reed Grasses (calamagrostis).  They form gorgeous compact plants that work well in landscape beds (3’x3’).  The seed heads form early in the season and look terrific throughout the fall and into the winter.  All of the grasses discussed so far work well not only in landscapes but also as borders or covering fences and utility boxes.


There is also a lot of interest in grasses that are smaller and more colorful, and there are several new varieties grown for their foliage color. Firstly, the Purple Fountain Grass is very popular and looks terrific in beds and containers, with the resplendent purplish red foliage lasting the entire season. However, it is NOT hardy in this area and does not overwinter. There are some newer varieties that are hardy and have reddish color. One is the Red Head Fountain Grass, which has purplish red seed heads that appear mid-summer and last through the fall. Another is the Rose Fountain Grass, with the foliage taking on a reddish purple hue in the mid-summer, along with the purple seed heads appearing at that time. There is also the Burgundy Bunny Fountain Grass, a sport of the popular Little Bunny, and Japanese Blood Grass, that have a maroon red tint to the foliage and seed heads. Golden Hakone Grass and Variegated Liriope are also great selections. They add gold colors to the landscape and have slow spreading forms.

 -Provided by Oakland New Albany



Posted in Gardening, Landscape | Comments Off

It’s Time for Spring Blooming Bulbs!


Now is the time to prepare for bulbs that bloom in the spring.  They are easy to grow and a welcome sight after a long winter.  Spring blooming bulbs include daffodils, tulips, crocus,  hyacinths, allium, and many others.  With little care at planting time they will reward you with blooms for years.  The only challenge is remembering to purchase and plant the bulbs in the fall.

photo 2

Bulbs need several weeks  in the ground to get their root systems growing before the ground freezes.  The best time to plant spring blooming bulbs in our area  is September through November.  Late planted bulbs will develop roots in the spring and may bloom later than normal.  They will get back on schedule the following year.

When selecting bulbs, choose large, firm ones.  Size DOES matter!!  Large bulbs produce large flowers or more flowers per stem.  Avoid bulbs that are dried out, spongy or soft.  Select an appropriate location.  Most flowering bulbs prefer full sun.  Most trees do not have leaves yet when the bulbs bloom, which gives you many options for a spot of color.  A location with well drained soil will prevent the bulbs from rotting.

After selecting an area, lay the bulbs out on the ground to get a sense of the arrangement you would like.  This is helpful if you are planting masses of different colors.  Don’t be intimidated by the thought of planting 100 bulbs or more, they just take seconds to plant!

Bulbs need to be planted at a depth about 3 times their diameter.  For example, 2″ daffodil bulbs should be planted 6 to 8 inches deep.  Smaller bulbs can be planted at a depth of 3 to 4 inches.  Plant teardrop shaped bulbs pointy side up.  Flat bulbs should be planted flat side up.  On some bulbs, you can see where the roots develop; plant that side facing down.  Sprinkle a little specially formulated bulb food or bone meal into each hole or trench to promote vigorous blooming in the spring.  After planting, cover with mulch and water thoroughly.  Done.

With a little work in the fall, you can enjoy the first signs of spring in your own back yard.  It’s worth it!



-Provided by Oakland Columbus

Posted in Gardening | Comments Off

The Bridge

From viewing in the garden, to displaying in the home.

Flowers1     It was ironic. After all, at that point in my life I’d spent the last couple of decades designing commercially grown flowers for a living. I had also begun a new sideline business of traveling under sponsorship to conduct workshops and speaking engagements on the topic. Now there had been a change in my personal life. Having sold our condominium, we now inhabited our first property measured in acres as well as square footage! Prior to our ten year old house, the land had been occupied by corn and soybeans. The home’s builders planted 5 trees in their attempt to get back to nature. That’s right, 1 tree per acre! The gardening world had been my oyster. Now we looked over multiple perennial beds, containing a rotating mix of flowering blossoms. Somehow though, I was reluctant to cut them. It seemed that the garden was their natural place. Those blooms would last longer and re-supply both the plant and the soil, I reasoned. To display them in the house would be to interrupt that process. We need to learn to stop and smell the roses, right? For a couple of years I worked, observed, and appreciated our flowers in their “native” environment. IFlowers2 was also studying Ikebana (Japanese floral design), which has an underlying element of honoring nature’s creations. Somehow these diverse ingredients created an epiphany for me, and I gained a new understanding of my role in this process. I came to understand that a few simple rules would keep me in balance with the garden’s trophies. First (and most important) do not cut more than you need. Second, every flower and foliage used should have a purpose in the design (if one flower is hidden behind another, it was not needed). Third, do not underestimate the bud vase (sometimes a single blossom delivers the entire message).

Since my epiphany I feel free to cut, arrange, and display flowers. At all moments of the process I try to be aware. Knowledge of design is not the prerequisite here; it is the honoring of nature’s beauty. About a decade ago, we began planting with more focus on plants which could be harvested for design use. Awesome stands of curly willow and autumn sedum have yielded fresh product for altar pieces and bridal bouquets. Dragon-eye pine and zebra grass leave people asking where we find product. The answer of course, is a stroll outside the house, where most of it remains un-touched. Don’t be afraid to bring a carefully chosen harvest inside, or take a bouquet with you as a hostess gift. After all, if they don’t respond to the beauty of flowers, why are you spending time with them anyway? So go cut some flowers, enjoy the process, and share the beauty with others!

-Provided by Oakland Delaware

Posted in Floral Arrangements, Gardening, Interiorscapes, Landscape | Comments Off

(Landscape) Contractor Fees, Demystified

0 766 This article was originally posted here on, but it resonated so strongly with us, that we wanted to share it with our readers.  Landscape design and construction has a great deal in common with home contracting projects, and we hope this helps people understand the pricing of a landscape project…there’s a lot of good reasons why they cost what they cost! (For the complete article, click on the link above–and while you’re at it, check out Oakland Design Associate’s houzz page!)

by Anne Higuera, CGR, CAPS ( contributor)

When you ask a contractor for an estimate, it usually includes the direct costs of construction plus a markup charged on some or all of those expenses. This is true whether you have a time-and-materials estimate or a fixed-price one, also known as a bid.

Ranging from 10 to 30 percent or possibly more, markups are often loosely described as covering overhead and profit, although they cover a wide range of costs that contractors incur while doing business. Be assured that whether you see that markup clearly or it is included in other costs, it is in there somewhere, because if it isn’t, your contractor can’t be solvent. 

What kinds of overhead costs are you paying for through these fees, and how do those benefit homeowners as well as contractors? Here‘s a short list, which may vary by company and the state and county in which they operate.

0 738 Insurance. General liability (GL) and other kinds of insurance (for tools, leased equipment, workers’ compensation etc.) is often considered overhead. Some companies list their GL insurance as a line item on their estimates, because it is tied directly to revenue, but many cover it in their markups. GL policies generally cover a contractor’s operations. It is also possible with many policies to list homeowners and their architects as “additional insureds,” giving them added protection under the general contractor’s policy. It is worthwhile for homeowners to consult with their own insurance agents ahead of a remodel to make sure they have all of their homeowners’ coverage in place, and that there are not exclusions for unoccupied homes or those under construction.

Taxes. General contractors pay a full range of taxes — federal, state, county and city — or fewer, depending on where they operate. In some states contractors are retailers, so they collect and remit sales tax along with paying their own revenue-based state taxes. If they have employees, contractors also pay their share of social security, unemployment and Medicare taxes for their staff.  The upside as a homeowner is that you are helping to keep your local economy healthy by improving your home. On a larger project, you may be keeping five or more people fully employed during construction, and there aren’t a lot of other opportunities to see your investment at work.

0 710 Labor burden. Payroll taxes, worker’s compensation and other benefits add up to what’s known as the labor burden. That’s the overhead cost of having an employee working for the company. Those costs can include recruitment, training, taxes, medical coverage, paid time off, vacation, retirement and more. This “burden” can actually be a benefit to homeowners, who are able to hire companies with a fully compliant workforce that is well trained and feels well compensated with benefits. A full benefits package tends to draw top candidates. And isn’t that who you’d like working on your home? 

Office and office staff. Contractors may own or rent their office spaces, or even work from their own homes, but offices come with a panoply of expenses. Aside from the cost of the space, there are many bills to pay: utilities, phones, landscaping, security and more. When contractors have office staff, they can be underwritten by overhead or may have their time billable to projects, depending on their job descriptions. Offices provide a number of benefits to homeowners. Unlike a P.O. box, they are bricks and mortar — a place to meet the contractor in person. Need to review your bill or look at receipts? You know where to go. An office usually means there are office staffers who work at least in part on your project and handle all of your paperwork. Having a staffed office means the phone is consistently answered, and that the office is open during regular hours. That regularity of business operation is often a sign that paperwork is processed at expected intervals and that systems are in place to provide consistent customer service.

Marketing. Even contractors with a stellar reputation, a beautiful website and a six-month backlog need to market their business. Marketing almost always involves spending money, whether it’s on ads or sponsorships or other opportunities that get the name of a company out to potential clients. Even though marketing may not strike you as valuable for your current project, if effective, it will ensure that your contractor stays in business in the long term. That means your contractor will be around to service your warranty, answer your questions and be onboard for the next project you plan. And it may be how you found him or her in the first place. Now that’s money well spent.

(For more about what contractor fees cover, see the whole article here. To check out Oakland’s houzz profile, click here.

Posted in Gardening, Landscape | Comments Off


VegetablesWe have noticed quite resurgence in vegetable gardening as of late, with many customers trying out growing their own vegetables for the first time. We find this very exciting! Many are finding space for this by trying them in containers or constructing small raised beds in their back yards, a break in the traditions of the large gardens of the past but still well worth the effort!  We have recently had lots of discussions with customers who have tried out planting vegetables this spring and have the basic question of “ What do we do now?” This is the time that several challenges can appear in the veggie growing process. Firstly, this is the time that the plants are bush-blue-lake-beansgrowing on and maturing- we want to encourage this development as much as possible as the goal is to produce and harvest as many high quality vegetables as we can! So, keeping the plants well satisfied with water and nutrients is essential in early summer. Containers and raised beds with high quality potting soils or organic humus mixes are great in that plants love it, grow large, and developing quickly & healthy. However, due to nature of their drainage, they require lots of supplemental watering. The easiest and most efficient way to accomplish this is to hand water thoroughly with a hose and wand or spray nozzle, checking the soil several inches down daily as most vegetables root at least that deeply. Morning watering is preferred, and avoid watering the foliage as this can encourage disease problems. Also, fertilizing is extremely important this time of year: an organic slow release dry fertilizer blended for vegetable plants is essential and if was not applied this spring could still be done now. In addition, supplemental fertilizing with a quick release, water soluble fertilizer such as MiracleGro biweekly is extremely helpful.

This is also the time of year that we may notice quite a few insect or disease better-boy-tomatoproblems. For instance, we have quite a few customer concerns already, mainly in tomatoes, the most popularly grown vegetable. Leaf curling has been noticed quite a bit already this year and can be attributed to not only a number of diseases but also  cultural issues –copper fungicides are effeburpless-hybrid-cucumberctive as well as cultivating the soil for adequate aeration and applying as light layer of mulch to make the soil moisture  more constant. We will also begin to see more insect problems- some, such as aphids, can cause curling while others, such as Japanese beetle or tomato hornworm, can cause holes or lacerations of the leaves. In addition to tomatoes, most commonly grown vegetables can be affected, such as cucumbers, peppers, potatoes, and beans. Sevin is a tried and true comprehensive insecticide for these problems and can be sprayed directly on the foliage periodically. For a more organic approach Spinosad has been effective. We also cannot forget protecting against deer and rabbits- fencing and netting are great but also spraying repellents are quite effective and safe to use in vegetable gardens. In small areas, using stakes or cages for tomatoes are highly beneficial and can still be installed. Also, let’s not forget we can still plant some beans, zucchini, and carrots now for additional crops in the summer!

-Provided by Oakland New Albany


Posted in Gardening, Landscape | Comments Off

Composting in the Home Garden

One of the pillars of organic gardening is the steady application of compost to any area that is growing something of value. Compost is, of course, readily available for purchase from the garden center, but compost can be easily made at home with the most minimal tools. And the benefits to soil and plants of composting well justify the modest effort of making it.


Compost is created by combining organic wastes from home and yard in proper ratios and allowing microorganisms, water, and heat to decompose the materials into dark brown earthy humus. This humus can then be used as a soil amendment or medium to grow outdoor plants. All soils can be improved with the addition of humus. Specifically, most urban and suburban soils are of high clay content and compacted. This makes growing plants a challenge. The addition of compost promotes the creation of high quality soils that grow better plants and improve the environment.


Benefits of Composting

-Reduces the amount of waste into your garbage can by up to 50%. The landfillComposts don’t need or want this material.

-Reduces or eliminates the need for fertilizers.

-Enriches existing soils and regenerates poor soils by encouraging the production of beneficial micro-organisms. These micro-organisms in turn, break down the organic matter to create humus.

-Helps soil retain moisture and breath. Soils with high organic matter hold moisture better and release it over a longer period of time. They create a more friable soil that roots love to grow in.

-Suppress plant diseases and pests. The beneficial micro-organisms you introduce into the soil naturally suppress harmful diseases and pests.

- Greatly increase yield of crops. It’s easy: Better soil-Better crops.

-Holds, degrades, or eliminates many chemicals and hazardous materials in the soil. This is particularly important in the city where fallout of chemicals from the air can contribute to hazardous material in the soil.

-Reduces erosion and turf loss on hillsides, grassy play surfaces and roadsides.


Composting Ingredients

There are three ingredients to making compost:

Brown stuff: Dead leaves, branches, twigs, and a little native soil. Shred or break up to as small pieces as practical. Avoid material diseased or infested material or material contaminated by pesticides or petroleum products.

Green Stuff: Grass clippings, vegetable and fruit scraps, garden plants, coffee grounds, wood ash, and egg shells. Again, avoid material that is diseased, infested or contaminated with chemicals or oils.

Water: The right proportion of water in the compost activates the biological activity.


Other Stuff that is OK to Compost:

Horse or cow manure, cardboard (torn up or shredded), clean paper shredded, dryer or vacuum lint, hair and fur, hay and straw, sawdust, nut shells other than black walnut.

Do not Compost:

Black walnut leaves or twigs, coal or charcoal ash (only firewood ash), dairy products, diseased or infested plants, fats including grease lard or oils, meat including fish bones or scraps, pet wastes, or yard trimmings with possible chemical residues.


Making your Compost Pile

Select a spot for your compost pile or bin on bare mineral soil that is fairly level and receives plenty of sun. Compost piles that are contained on at least three sides will decompose quicker. There are a number of materials you can make a bin from such as stonth1e, wire fencing, wood pallets, or several side by side turning bins. Turning bins make turning the compost easier by just turning it into the next bin. It requires more space and more compost.

-Chop your compost materials up whenever possible. The more surface area available, the faster the decomposition.

-Size the compost pile correctly. . A pile should be between 3 and 6 feet square.  Smaller than this and the pile won’t be able to generate enough heat for decomposition. Larger than this and it won’t get enough oxygen which  could lead to unpleasant smells.

-Place large or course materials at the bottom of the pile to introduce air into the pile and drain excess water. Also, do not cover the pile with plastic or any impervious material. Air needs to circulate.

-The first layer should be some branches, twigs and other course ‘brown’ material -up to about 6”.

-Start adding your green materials up to 8-10” thick. Keep the compost ‘sponge damp’ moist.

- When you’ve dumped the above amount of green stuff in, add some native soil, compost inoculants, or topsoil on top (an inch or so will do).

- To speed decomposition up a bit, you can add manure, lime, or wood ash to the top. These materials add nutrients and reduce the pH of the mix.

-Repeat the above steps when the pile or bin is full.


The pile will generate some heat as the bacteria start their work. This is a good sign. The pile can be left alone to compost in 12 months, or the pile can be turned every couple of weeks to greatly accelerate the process. This yields nice compost in one growing season. Compost is ready when the material is brown, crumbly, and earthy smelling. If you have unpleasant smells in the compost, turn the pile well and give it more time. Work your finished humus into the top soil layers of flower, shrub or tree beds. Vegetable gardens can be top dressed any time of the year. For lawn applications, apply as a ½ inch layer each spring and rake in.


It is hard to know the exact nutrient make up of compost as it is created. This can lead to swings in soil acidity, nutrient excesses or nutrient deficiencies. It is a good idea to have your soil tested every three years or so. Soil amendments can then be added to soils before serious growth problems reach the plant. You can obtain composting materials and advice at any of the Oakland nursery stores and many websites.


-Provided by Oakland Columbus


Posted in Gardening, Landscape, Lawn | Comments Off

Garden Pottery

PotteryJune is the perfect time to shop here at Oakland Nursery.  The weather is not too hot, the perennials and flowering shrubs are in bloom and waiting for that perfect spot in YOUR garden.  Along with the live product, Oakland Nursery also carries a variety of yard and home decor in our gift shop.

Let’s talk about the three different makers of pots for YOUR special spot. Guy Wolff and Paul Wakefield are actually friends and have been turning the pottery wheel for many years.  Guy Wolff is known for his historical terracotta shapes.  They blend well with almost any décor, and let the plant be the star of the show.  Paul Wakefield is in the same school of style except that his pottery brings a little more modern tempo to the room with its dark shade of gray.

PotteryLast but certainly not least is my personal favorite, Campo di’ Fiori pottery.  This is a very organic looking line with the pots being modeled after flowers like campanula, poppy seed heads, and fern.  The awesome feature of these pots is that they have a moss coating that gives them that ‘aged-look’ and once you plant them and water, the moss grows and makes them look even more like an antique!  Is that not cool?!

Come in and enjoy the beautiful surroundings while deciding what to take home to YOUR special spot. Whether it be a perfect plant for your garden or a specialty pot for a special plant, come in and check us out!

-Provided by Oakland Columbus






Posted in Floral Arrangements, Gardening, Interiorscapes, Landscape | Comments Off