Four Great Gifts for the Gardener in Your Life


We always have someone that is hard to buy for. Hopefully your hard to buy for person likes to garden?! If not, perhaps we can pique their interest…

My person happens to be my dad. He has been the receiver of many lame gifts (let’s just say he has an extensive tie collection), but he now has become the giver of lame gifts! I think it’s his way of coping with the years and years of having to politely receive tie after tie, sweat pants after sweat pants and so on. He’s made a game out it – humorous (for the giver at least) yet thoughtful. Spoiler Alert: Uncle Den will be receiving a half full stamped Subway card. Yes, you’re right, they don’t do those anymore- he’s been sitting on this subway card waiting for it to mature properly for years now.

If you don’t have that kind of patience or same notion for gift giving, no worries: here are some better ideas for your hard to gift person…

  1. A good garden book (or ebook). If you’re person doesn’t happen to be a gardener yet, I highly recommend Micheal Pollan’s Second Nature.

second nature It’s about his first trials when he decides to really get into gardening. This may not sound interesting at first glance, but Pollen is a very talented writer. Trust me on this one-he has even made reading about eating vegetables sound interesting (In Defense of Food). Now that’s talent!





There is always the more instructional garden book route as well – which is pretty much limitless. Here are a couple of my favorites:

dirrs trees  edible landscaping  ohio perennials

  1. The best tool a gardener could ever own. What about a shovel you say….Think I’m over selling? Think again. It’s simple handle tool,like any worthwhile tool, it’s capable of many different tasks. Every time I’m out in the yard I use this tool. What could this amazing tool be? It’s called: The Soil Sword.

soil sword

Well actually it’s called a soil knife (I need to talk to their marketing). I wonder too if we can figure out how to play the clip in Crocodile Dundee where a guy tries to jump him with a knife and Paul Hogan says, “That’s not a knife….This is a knife.” And busts out his crazy looking more-like-a-sword-than-knife knife. Yeah, it’s kinda like that- empowering.

soil sword handle

Anyway, why bright orange? It’s A.M. Leonard brand, located right here in Portsmouth, Ohio. And it will last. So it looks impressive…but what does it do? It is great for weeding, bulb planting and plantings annuals. It’s also great for splitting perennials (cuts them like butter). And it is the only tool I know of that cuts through burlap and twine without getting jammed up. I used it to dead head perennials and grasses. It can also cut through roots or help loosen roots when planting anything that had become pot bound. I’ve also used it to cut through plastic pots to retrieve grossly pot bound plants. It’s an extremely useful tool and I highly recommend it.

shovelHowever, if you’re trying to buy for a child, stick to that shovel idea. There are small versions available which are great for those with little hands. Just go with one that has a wooden handle and a metal shovel head. This way there will be no tears when they go to use it!




  1. Good boots. For the avid gardener, well, they’ve been known to wrap their shoes in duct tape when desperate. When you’re on your feet a lot, shoes breakdown at surprising speed. Investing in a pair good pair of boots is definitely worth it – but we hardly do it for ourselves.

duct tape shoes     bogs

I’m currently trying out insulated Bogs® boots. Slightly more fashionable than duct tape – function before form in this case. My feet have stayed toasty warm and most importantly, dry this holiday season. And I bought Bogs® because they were actually recommended to be by a co-worker that has their pair for going on three years now! If a pair of boots lasts one season in the nursery industry that is considered good.

There are other style offerings by Bogs® that attempt to be more flattering and are still of good quality.

DSC_0422 DSC_0409

  1. Still not sure what to get? I know it is a busy time for so many, but why not pay a visit to one of our gift shops? You’ll find everything from fancy, functional to unique and especially quirky. Art (both garden and wall), bird feeders, bat houses, distinctive ornaments, educational toys and books just to name a few. Not to mention…interior plants, seasonal bulbs, decorative pots and supplies. And of course, when in doubt a gift card to Oakland Nursery will be sure to please! This way you don’t have to worry about buying the wrong size or what have you – let those hard-to-buy-for pick out something for themselves!

Wishing you Happy Holidays and Happy Gardening!

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Trendy Tillandsia: Air Plants!

by Kate Wilson

kate wilsonairplantTillandsia, more commonly known as air plants, are a great low maintenance addition to your interiors! Their natural habitat is up in the treetops among the orchids and ferns, cousins with Spanish moss. Hanging out in tropical trees, they are provided with good air circulation and bright, filtered light – essential ingredients to recreate in order to thrive at home.

Watering. Plants in the Bromeliad family, Tillandsia and Spanish moss included, absorb nutrients through water that has been cupped by the plant. Drench twice a week or soak (even overnight) once a week. Because these plants obtain their nutrients through water, it is important to use water that is chlorine free and not to use water that goes through a softener. Rain water is actually the best – setting the plant outside during a summer rain would be a real treat! Well water or spring water are good alternatives to a rain shower. It’s also important to shake off any excess water or drain out any standing water to avoid rot.

Display. Because these plants don’t need soil around their roots it’s easy to come up with creative ways to display them. They prosper in coral, lava rock (finally, a good use for lava rock!) or potted in a container using moss, twigs or bark in lieu of soil medium. Air plants can also be wired, stapled, or even glued… liquid nails or a silicone-based adhesive is recommended. Here are some inspiring ideas:



Blinged out:


Woodman’s Cottage:


And my all-time favorite, the hermit crab! Too cute!


Air plants can also work well in terrariums. I highly recommend giving one a try for yourself or as a gift for a friend. Remember: very low maintenance! Happy Gardening!


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The 411 on Four Organic Products

kate wilson by Kate Wilson,
Oakland Nursery Hortculturalist    image2

You’ve decided to grow organic! Great, whatever the reasoning behind you’re decision I’d like to support you and your organic gardening efforts. My favorite bonus to growing organic is barefoot gardening!

Having a healthy garden from the soil up is the most important step to warding off pests and diseases. And if you’re just starting out organically you need to build up your soil profile (we’re offering a free lecture on this in September) to obtain happy healthy plants. The most sustainable ways to change your soil into a goldmine of loose, nutrient rich organic matter of awesomeness takes time. And in the meantime, there are some organic pest and disease management products that can help bridge the gap.

If you need a little help in the garden we want you to make sure your efforts aren’t wasted in buying something you don’t need. Here are need to know terms to keep yourself straight – the 411.


Insecticidal Soap: A long chain of fatty acids that break down insect’s protective coating while not harming plants. Safe for edible and non-edible plants. Direct contact is needed to be effective. Do not use when beneficial insects, such as honey bees, butterflies, lady bugs, etc. are present. And only effective on insects, will not be helpful if you have a disease issue.

Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis): A naturally occurring soil bacterium disease that is fatal to the larva stage of certain insects. Applied to the leaves of plants in the evening, worms and other insects will ingest it, get sick, and die. Note: It is harmful to moths and butterflies, so don’t use it if you’re trying to protect monarch or other “good” butterflies!

Diatomaceous earth: The fossilized remains of marine phytoplankton, DE works when sprinkled on and around your plants. When an insect or worm comes in contact with it, DE scrapes and cuts them open, killing the pest. Works well for slugs too! Note: must be kept dry to work!

image3  IMG_20150805_170923294

Horticultural oils: These oils have been around for decades and are harmless to people, animals and it evaporates quickly. The oil either suffocates insects or acts as a poison. Please be mindful when you spray because it can effect coloring on sensitive plants (such as, Blue Spruce or Blue Rug Juniper). Also, it should be used in moderate temperatures.

image1 (1)

Neem Oil: Botanical insecticide, repellent and fungicide. BAM. Seriously, it’s extremely useful. Very low toxicity to humans, birds, bees and many other beneficial insects. I’m currently trying it out on the leaves of my raspberry bramble, because Japanese beetles of been out in full force. I usually just pick them off into some soapy water- but I’m going on vacation. I’m not going to allow those little jerks to take over while I’m gone, nor do I expect any of my lovely neighbors to swing by and knock off any for me. I’ll report my findings and let you know if Neem Oil deters Japanese beetles in addition to all its other pros.

Keep cool and Happy Gardening!

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Top Five Summer-Blooming Native Perennials

kate wilsonby Kate Wilson

What an unusual summer we’re having, with our rainy June and now a rainy July! Although it hasn’t been the best for my basement, my summer flowers (and weeds) are crazy lush and starting to bloom all over the place.

As you may be aware at this point, I’m a big fan of lists – Back in the good old days, I worked once at a music store, when CDs were still a thing and worshipped the movie High Fidelity. Although I have since fallen out of love with John Cusack, I’m still a big fan of music and lists.

Without further ado, I am pleased to give you the….

Ultimate Top 5 Summer-Blooming Native Perennials

599px-Butterfly_Weed_Whole_Flowering_Plant_1676pxAscelias tuberosa, Butterfly weed. One of the more popular native perennials in recent years, this star owes its fame in large part due to its membership in the milkweed family. It’s one of the few plants where Monarch butterflies lay their eggs and larvae eat the leaves of the plant. Butterfly weed, despite “weed” in the name, only grows to 1’-2’ tall and wide with bright orange clusters of flowers in summer. Looks its best when planted in groupings. It can tolerate wet feet, making it a great accent in a rain garden. Full sun.



Geranium, Hardy Geranium or Cranesbill. NOTE: not to be confused with Grandma’s favorite (red) annual. This perennial has a mounding-to-spreading habit (1’ high and 2’-3’ wide) that becomes covered in violet-blue or pink blooms in early summer and re-blooms into late summer and even into fall! It can take full to part shade. The two most revered varieties are Geranium x ‘Rozanne’, a 2008 perennial of the year award winner, and Geranium cantabrigiense ‘Biokovo’, a 2015 perennial of the year award. Needless to say, it’s a winner that should be enjoyed in your garden.

Liatris punctata habit Liatris spicata, Purple gayfeather. Small purple (sometimes pink-ish-purple or white depending on the variety) flowers grouped in clusters along a spike. What makes this plant particularly interesting is that it blooms from the top downward. I am unaware of any other plant with this blooming habit. A great alternative to the popular, but invasive, loosestrife. Part sun to full sun.

IMG_20150712_100817Echinacea purpera, Purple coneflower. Reaches 26”-36” tall and can tolerate full sun to part sun. It blooms from mid-summer into fall. Seed heads attract birds in early winter if you choose not to dead head them in the fall. There are MANY varieties.



Coreopsis_grandiflora_003Coreopsis verrticillate, Threadleaf Tickseed. Most varieties
growing 12”-26” tall, this perennial has a fine texture due to its narrow (thread) leaf. It profusely flowers bright yellow blooms in mid-summer. Some highly regarded varieties are ‘Golden showers’ and ‘Moonbeam.’ Part sun to full sun.

Don’t worry, I have more plant lists up my sleeve! Happy Gardening!

Depending on your definition of native, some of these varieties and their pure “native-ness” could be called into question. This topic, although I find interesting, is not something I wish to explore at this moment. If you, however, are interested in exploring, than I encourage you to look into the following sites:

Ohio Native Plant Network:

OSU extension services at:

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Water Your Plants!

kate wilson by Kate Wilson, Horticulturalist

oakland flwrs

We always mean well, especially while out shopping at the nursery. We see all the beautiful flowers and we tell ourselves, “I’ll be different this time, I’ll commit….to keeping you alive and watering you all of the time.” And then we splurge, coming home with a car loaded down with plants. It’s practically a miracle that we get them all in the ground or potted up…we’re feeling really good. Everything is in its place, looking awesome, and – Hey! – maybe you even remembered to water everything in when you first planted. Great!

Now that it’s mid-June. The days are heating up and while we’ve had A LOT of rain this week, we all know it’s not going to last and it won’t be long until things aren’t looking quite as wondrous as you had hoped.  Here is what needs to happen to achieve and maintain the original awesomeness you (or your landscape designer) first conceived: water your plants!

But you are, right? You’ve stood over your plants with a hose set on shower or mist every freaking day and things just aren’t what you had wanted. If this is you, then let me tell you how to water your plants PROPERLY.


Step 1: Less is more. Set your hose on a trickle…slow and steady wins this race. Place hose at the base of plant….You should barely hear the hose at the spigot whining. If you’re watering your veggies or annuals, leave hose at the base of each plant until water starts to run off – about 30 seconds. Do three or so and circle back. Be sure to hit each plant twice, three times if you have the patience.

For larger plants, perennials, potted shrubs and small potted trees, leave at the base of the plant again until water begins to run off. This should take close to a minute maybe more. Again, repeat once or twice depending on your patience level. For larger balled and burlapped (B&B) 2”-3”trees and shrubs, leave hose at the base for a good thirty minutes at that slow trickle. Forty-five minutes if it’s a water lover, such as a river birch.

Step 2: There isn’t a step two…Seriously, just one step. There are of course keys to success. Like actually taking the time to water all of these plants. Still overwhelmed? It’s okay. We really do want you to be successful and achieve all of your horticultural dreams. Here are some helpful suggestions:

Mark your calendar. Make a special watering day each week and then stick to it. While watering, set a timer. Either on your smart phone or a kitchen timer. Set the timer for each plant so that you remember to water most of your plants and not just one. Stick to the watering schedule from now until mid-September. During summer your newly planted landscape needs to be deeply watered once a week, regardless of any rain. For real. Just once a week for about 3 months. You can do this! And if you do, you’ll never see the one year plant guarantee as a backup plan again. You won’t need it. Also, attached to every receipt that leaves our stores is bright green sheet of paper, it is a very detailed watering guide…read it!

By watering on this slow trickle you are saturating the root ball and the surrounding soil. Therefore, training roots to grow down and out and be more drought tolerant once established. It normally takes a full season (one year from planting) for a perennial, shrub or small tree to get its roots established. For larger trees, two or three years may be needed. Once the root system is established there is no need for a committed watering schedule. You’ve given enough TLC to let it fend for itself. Unless of course we have some weird drought, then please throw some water its way.

bright hose head

Resist the temptation to stand over the plant with a watering wand to water newly planted plants. Most of the water will simply run off and you’ll be wasting your time. Now, investing in a colorful watering wand is perfectly sound, especially if it reminds you to water. They’re great for saturating pots and hanging baskets, but they’re not your ticket for efficiently saturating soil around trees and shrubs. You could get away with using it to water annuals or perennials in groupings.

Another thought. If you have newly planted trees or shrubs in a hedge or screen, close together, it may be worth considering a soaker hose. One that sweats. Sweating soaker hoses release water slowly, letting water soak into the ground rather than running off. It can also save you time on watering day.

soaker hose

Commit to your watering schedule and you’ll be amazed at how your plants will thank you. Happy Gardening!

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Spring Snow

kate wilsonby Kate Wilson

I like living in Ohio and having four seasons. There is of course good and bad – the random weather changes for example.  Keeping us on our toes and remind us that we, as humans, cannot control everything. Besides, it’s something (other than sports) that bring us together as Ohioans; bemoaning the local weather is always common ground.

The continual change of the seasons reminds me of the consistent change – whether natural or manipulated by us – in the garden.  This spring has been somewhat turbulent thus far. A week straight of 86˚ highs to be followed by two nights of frost warnings.

Today my son and I experienced one of these odd weather, seemingly random, changes and I thought it would make perfect blog banter.

cottonwood snow

It “snowed” and rained at the same time this early afternoon. Yup, according to the eye of a 5 year old.  Don’t worry I’m not going into a long story about how I adore my son. Just know that I do.

But check this out…..We had a lovely spring shower and the sun managed to shine through the rain (okay, so far normalish Ohio spring happenings) ALL the while this soft white “snow” drifted on the light breeze. It was enough to collect along the side of my front walk.

cottonwood and allium

What is this “snow?” It’s a pile of Cottonwood seeds! (Populus deltoides) The female trees produce these light, fluffy seeds in the late Spring-early Summer, seeds that can produce trees that can grow up to 100 feet tall and live up to 100 years old. Happy Spring Happenings!

cottonwood trees




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Five Native Spring-Flowering Trees

kate wilsonby Kate Wilson

Not sure what all the native plant hype is about? That’s okay. I’ll let you in on it: besides the whole ecological, good steward of the landscape angle it also makes good practical sense. Native plants are adapted to our climate and soil. I know- what a revelation, right? But think about it: native plants already love our crappy clay soil, they tolerate our manic temperature swings and get by with whatever water our local skies provide. Often times, natives are also hardy in the sense that they don’t have many pest or disease issues (except for pests and diseases that are not native, but we’ll save that for another time. I hate you, emerald ash borer!).

Enough introduction, let’s get down to business. Here are five great native tree options…



Carolina Silverbell, Halesia tetraptera: This native has delicate white bell-shaped blooms that usually appear in mid spring. This small tree (30’-40 tall and 15’-30’ wide) likes full sun or part shade. Although it thrives in well-drained organic, rich, and slightly acidic soil, it can tolerate a range of soils. It would be best to amend your existing clay with some compost at the time of planting and fertilize with a soil acidifier (Espoma organic holly tone would work if you already have it on hand). Oh, and it is essentially pest and disease free!



Serviceberry, Amelandchier x grandiflora or Amelanchier laevis: This superb small tree (25’tall and 25’ wide) has a feathery white bloom in early spring. It tolerates full sun, but thrives in part sun and can tolerate part shade. Naturally a multi-stemmed tree, trained single trunk options can be found in larger B&B (balled & burlapped) sizes. So what’s the superb part? Besides being a native, blooming in shady conditions, and having delicious edible fruits (they’re our native blueberry alternative), Serviceberries have great form and foliage texture and a smattering of oranges and red fall color. This is a three season small tree with appetizing function to boot! Superb I say! (Look for ‘Autumn Brilliance’ and ‘Princess Diana’ varieties.)



Eastern Redbud, Cercis canadensis: This little lady (25’ tall and 25’wide) can also be found as a single or multi-stemmed tree. It, hands down, has one of the longest bloom times, especially for a tree! The blooms have a small lady’s slipper shape with a light purple color that completely blankets the canopy and sometimes even pops up on the trunk. Gorgeous. Finding a natural stand of these while in bloom is an amazing experience. After the blooms fade broad heart-shaped leaves emerge. There are so many great cultivars of this tree, most requiring part sun, I’m going to make a separate post about them. The only downside to this native is that it does not have a long life span, typically 25 years or so. I advise a Sunday drive throughout the Clintonville neighborhood – about two weeks after this is posted- if you need any more convincing.

fringe tree


Fringetree, Chionanthus virginicus: Another small (15’ tall and 15’ wide) native that blooms in late spring. Narrow white petals drip from the branches and give off a sweet fragrance. Can tolerate full sun to part sun and I’ve even seen (and smelled) it in part shade. Nice broad leaf texture with yellow fall color. Very underused tree. A good specimen can be found behind the main downtown library in the (Seurat) Topiary Garden NW corner.


cornus florida


Dogwood, Cornus flordia: Another small tree, but this beauty needs some shade. Ideally, plant in a place that receives morning sun and afternoon shade. There are many MANY cultivars of this tree, most with varying shades of white (50 shades of…dogwood?). “They” even have some out with some pretty interesting pink coloration. I’m partial to the Cherokee varieties, but you really can’t go wrong with any. This tree may drop its leaves early in the late summer/early fall if we have a dry hot summer – which is most of the time- but they usually won’t go without first splashing your yard with a little red color.

Want large native spring blooming trees? Look into Tulip poplar, Yellow wood and of course, the Buckeye!

About Kate: Kate Wilson is a horticulturalist, educational coordinator, and blogger at Oakland Nursery. She specializes in landscape design and has been designing in Columbus for more than a decade. Kate received an Associate’s Degree in Landscape Design from Columbus State and a Bachelor’s Degree in Fine Art from Wittenberg University. As part of these studies, she partnered with both The Biltmore Estate in Asheville, North Carolina and Franklin Park Conservatory in Columbus, Ohio. In 2007, she did extensive studies of the gardens of Kyoto, Japan. Kate has been with Oakland Nursery for over five years and can be found at the Columbus store located on Oakland Park Ave. She is usually at the service desk or out in the nursery wandering through the flowering shrubs!

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Early Spring Gardening: Direct Sowing

kate wilson by Kate Wilson

photo 2

Maybe spring is coming? I’ve always loathed the month of March in Ohio for tricking me into thinking spring is on its way. Then it will snow. And back and forth, unable to decide whether spring has sprung or if winter is going to stick around a while longer.

Regardless – as gardeners, we can take matters into our own hands. Despite the unpredictable weather, we can get outside, disturb some soil, and plant some seeds. It is not immediately rewarding, but think of it as an investment. Plant now while you’re itching for spring and by the time it finally rolls around –BAM! Your garden has already started. Cool season gardening, my friends. (And now that we’ve made it to April, we have no where to go but up!)

So what in the world can handle 20 degree air temperatures at night and upwards of 55 during the day, not to mention the cold soil temps? Little tenacious veggies! And even a flower or two. Here’s the short list:

Veggies:                                                                 Annuals:
Lettuces (butter, romaine, etc.)                           Pansies
Kale                                                                          Ranunculus
Spinach                                                                    Sweet Alyssum
Cabbage                                                                   Candelas

Each seed’s needs can be a little different, so follow the specific instructions on each seed packet. If you do decide to venture out into the garden and direct sow some cool season crops, don’t forget to bring along some compost to amend your soil with. Your veggies and flowers will reward you for your efforts.

Speaking of seeding outside, how’s the old lawn?

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Early Spring Gardening: Over-seeding

kate wilson by Kate Wilson

Now is a great time to over seed your lawn. What is over seeding? It’s simply spreading grass seed in your patchy or newly established lawn. Why do it? So you can have a nice thick lawn that will shame your neighbors shade out any potential weeds from popping up.

These days there are so many choices when it comes to grass seed it can be overwhelming. If you’re looking to over seed, I recommend going with Titan Tall Fescue. Here’s why: It is sun AND shade tolerant. As if that is not enough, once established it is also very draught tolerant. So for an even-looking lawn, whether you have sun or shade or both, Titan Tall Fescue is the one.Oak26 COMPRESSED

Now that you know what seed to use, here’s how to over seed. Spread your seed with a spreader or, if you’re like me, pretend you’refeeding chickens and spread by hand. Most professional lawn experts would not recommend spreading grass seed by hand – and hand spreaders are fairly cheap – but I like the quick and dirty approach. Nerds out there can keep their spreaders and measure their spread with a micrometer or whatever. After you have your grass seed down, use some compost or topsoil and spread over your grass seed, especially where you have a patch of seed. Lay just enough down to cover the seed. Then water in. Soak the area with a sprinkler to best saturate the soil and seed.

That’s it! Here’s to a healthier fuller lawn…..Happy Spring!

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Three Must-Know Tips for Seed Starting

kate wilson by Kate Wilson

Seed Starting Kit









Seed starting indoors is not for the timid or faint of heart. It’s an endeavor. Although it can potentially make economic sense to seed start, you’re saving some $$ in exchange for your time, commitment and literal weeding out. Yup, you must kill some of your seedlings that you have committed to. The experts call this “thinning out.” And I feel like this is a must-know before starting. If you’re cool with playing Darwin, then let’s proceed to some tips that will help you save time and give you a better chance at success.


Seed starting soil–vital for seed starting success.

Soil Matters. It really does. You need soil that will stay loose, somewhat arid, but still
retain moisture without compacting. And it must do this in tiny pots or trays (and they must have drainage holes!). Seed starting potting soil is most widely used because it contains perlite which is a naturally occurring material (volcano popcorn!) which is lightweight and won’t compact. Coir, naturally occurring extract from coconut husks, is recommended by expert Jodi Kushins from Over the Fence Farm (a local CSA).

What is key about both of these types of “soil” is that neither contain fertilizers. You’ll want to be able to control the amount and source of fertilizer later, once you have sprouts.


Self watering seed tray.

Bottom Watering. When I mentioned commitment earlier it was in reference to watering. If you do not spritz daily with a spray bottle your seeds will not germinate and you’ve already lost. If you are able to keep on task and spritz those little seeds into germination you’ll see sprouts pop up within one to two weeks. Once you have sprouts, congratulate yourself and reward yourself by bottom watering. Bottom watering, in this case, is using a tray under your tray/pots (that have drainage holes) of seedlings that is filled with water. You can also add in your liquid fertilizer to the water you fill the bottom tray with. The soil will soak up the water and stay moist as needed and encourage root growth. Also key to winning.


Oakland offers a huge variety of regular, heirloom, and organic seeds.

Acclimation. At first I thought I was being very Darwinian when I took my first tray of seedlings and planted them directly into the garden. I figured after all the TLC I had given them indoors they needed to venture out on their own. Those that would survive were the toughest, right? The lesson, as always, is I’m a fool. Acclimation is the dance that needs to happen between your seedlings and the great outdoors. This is not some funny tradition, but completely necessary. Your little dudes have been growing in ideal, unrealistic conditions with lots of fake light, regular water, and no breeze. It will take about a week to two weeks for your seedlings to adjust to the outdoors (and grow a protective cuticle).

Set out your trays/pots, in the shade at first, for a couple hours a day and then gradually have them out longer with a little direct sunlight. Bring them inside each night. After five to seven days of this back and forth, they’ll be ready to spend the night outside. After their first overnight, they’ll be ready for the garden!


Florescent light bulbs.

Okay, so there are really 4 must-know tips. Light! It, too, is really important for success. Little seedlings like loads of light, about ten hours a day. Use fluorescents directly over your seed trays, starting at about 4 inches. Once your sprouts begin to grow, you can move your lights higher. It’s important to keep your lights weirdly close to your seedlings so that they don’t over stretch (and pull a muscle…no that’s not right) and get leggy. Okay, maybe I was kinda right about the muscle thing. Regular fluorescents are fine if you’re unsure of your commitment and investment. If you want to get serious it’s worth it to invest in real grow lights.

For a more step by step process, click here.

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